Wednesday, 28 August 2013

The Basics of Acne Skincare

I've noticed that a lot of people are misinformed on how to treat acne, especially in teenagers like myself. I was doing the wrong things for a long time and it took me 2 years of researching on the internet to figure out what's good and what's bad for acne. i don't claim to be an expert, but as someone who has dealt with and researched acne for 2 years, i feel as though i should share my experiences and the things i've learned.

i guess the biggest tip i can give to anyone suffering from acne or breakouts is to be as gentle as possible. Avoid soaps, mineral oils, synthetic fragrances and colors, and solvent alcohols. here are a list of alcohols you should avoid, and i recommend watching this video to learn more about alcohols on the skin (because not all of them are the same). i would also suggest watching her other videos because they are EXTREMELY informative and helpful.
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Drinking Alcohol (Vodka, spirits, wine, etc.)- SD Alcohol (specially denatured alcohol)- Denatured Alcohol- Alcohol denat.- Ethanol, Methanol- Ethyl and Methyl Alcohol- Polyvinyl Alcohol- Just "Alcohol"- Benzyl Alcohol (only when high on ingredients list)

The reason you want to be gentle is because acne is caused by the inflamation of sebaceous (oil) glands. when you use products that irritate your skin, it will become more inflamed, which is the cause of acne in the first place. so avoid harsh products, especially products that dry and strip the skin.

*one thing i want to stress is that after putting these tips to use for about 2 weeks and you do not see much improvement, GO TO YOUR DOCTOR. sometimes there is nothing topical that you can do to fix your acne because it's an internal problem. in this case you would need medications to cure your acne.

i apologize in advance for how ugly and basic the pictures are omg

The first step to having clearer skin is cleansing. if you wear makeup or sunscreen (everyone should wear sunscreen) then i suggest doing double cleansing. the first cleanse is to remove the makeup and sunscreen, and the second is to get deep into your pores to clear out and cleanse it of oils, dead skin cells, and other things that could clog our pores and cause breakouts.

for makeup/sunscreen removal, i wouldn't recommend using a foam cleanser because cleansing twice with a cleansing foam could be too drying. instead i would suggest some kind of cleansing liquid, such as cleansing oil, cleansing water, cleansing milk, or cleansing cream. i would reccomend cleansing oil to oilier skin types because it is the best at dissolving oil and deep cleansing. cleansing water is suitable for all skin types, and cleansing milk or cream is recommendable to drier skins. please do NOT use cleansing wipes because the rubbing causes irritation and also offset the skin's pH, which causes further irritation. 

some makeup removers i would recommend are bioderma and pond's cleansing cream. as far as cleansing oil goes, i've tried a few and didn't really notice a difference but i do like the ones from HIPITCH and Kose.


for actual cleansing, i suggest using the gentlest cleanser you can find that is soap free. in my experiences, cetaphil gentle skin cleanser for all skin types and hada labo's ES cleanser have worked well for me. cetaphil is pretty popular and for a good reason. it didn't irritate my skin at all and it even helped to clear some of my acne even though it doesn't have any ingredients that are known to fight against acne. if you really want something that foams, hada labo ES cleanser is a good gentle foaming cleanser that doesn't irritate the skin. both of these cleansers effectively clean the skin without stripping it or making it feel dry. i would recommend cleansing twice a day, once in the morning and once at night. (there's no need to use makeup removers in the morning though since you weren't wearing makeup or sunscreen)




after cleansing, the next step is to tone your skin. the reason we want to tone our skin is because the skin has a pH that is slightly acidic. when it is at the correct pH, it functions well. (sometimes if i don't tone, my skin will become oilier than if i did, and i think it's because my skin is producing extra oil to correct the pH, but i'm not sure if that's why.) almost every cleanser has a basic pH, and some tap water is also basic, so after cleansing we need to bring our skin back to it's correct acidity. the problem with most toners (especially ones geared towards oily or acne prone skin) contain a lot of alcohol. the only one i can truly recommend is the face shop's blemish zero toner, which has great ingredients and is effective and toning the skin while also treating breakouts without irritating the skin. if anyone has any toners they like that don't contain mineral oil, solvent alcohols, or synthetic fragrances and colours, please comment so other people can try it!




the third step is optional, but i think it helps a lot when trying to clear up breakouts. it's the treatment step. in this step an acne treatment cream is used to more effectively and quickly clear up the skin. one of the most popular treatment creams is benzoyl peroxide which i personally have had good experiences with in the past. something to remember about benzoyl peroxide is that a higher concentration doesn't mean it's more effective. in fact, the efficiency of the product doesn't change after a concentration higher than 2.5%, the only thing is that it's more drying. so if you choose to use benzoyl peroxide, try finding one in a concentration of 2.5%. another popular treatment is salicylic acid. this is more effective at treating blackheads and whiteheads, whereas the benzoyl peroxide is better at treating cystic acne. since most of my acne has been cystic, i've had better experiences with benzoyl peroxide, but many people prefer salicylic acid. it's just a matter of what kind of acne you have and how your skin reacts. a more natural option would be tea tree oil, which is worth trying but i have not noticed great results with it. if you decide to use it, please never put 100% tea tree oil directly on your face. what i would recommend doing is mixing a few drops of it into your moisturizer, with a ratio of 1:5 at most. the treatment i'm using now is retin-a, however you need a prescription for it in most countries i think. i can't say much about it since i've only been using it for about 2 weeks, but your doctor will probably know better than me if you should or shouldn't use it. 


this picture is so awful i'm sorry


the last step is to moisturize. this is a very important step, but it's overlooked a lot of times by people with oily skin. if you don't moisturize, your skin will become even more oily and cause more breakouts. one ingredient i would recommend for everyone, but especially oily skin, is hyalauronic acid, aka sodium hyaluronate. this might seem scary to dry skins, but it's really good at moisturizing the skin. a lot of times people with oily skin lack water content in their skin, so their skin produces excess oil to compensate. hyalauronic acid locks water in the skin, so your skin doesn't have to produce as much oil. this is great for all skin types, obviously, but especially oily because it will reduce the oil. it won't get rid of the oil, but i think if you try moisturizing with hyalauronic acid you will notice your skin is less oily. my favorite moisturizers for acne are complex 15 (i think this is only available in canada) cerave, and hada labo. the hada labo might be too much for oily skin, but for combo to dry it should be ok. i especially recommend the hada labo to people with drier skin types, but it's effective on people with combo skin like myself if we just use a small amount.



the most important thing is your diet. skincare and topical treatments can help a lot, but the problem is usually from within. a lot of people develop acne due to an intolerance to wheat or dairy, so i suggest you try to cut those out or at least reduce the amount that you consume. it's also beneficial to drink lot's of water, green tea, and chrysanthemum tea. green tea is full of antioxidants and chrysanthemum tea is often consumed in chinese cultures after eating oily foods or if one has pimples (so i'm told). what i like to do is drink green tea before 3pm and chrysanthemum tea after 5pm because green tea contains caffeine while chrysanthemum tea aids in relaxation. the best thing you can do for your skin (and your body overall) is to cut out processed foods, foods containing high sugar or salt, greasy foods, and soft drinks. these foods are hard for your body to digest and therefore could cause skin troubles. i was told by my dermatologist (and i myself believe this) "we know there's a correlation between the gut and acne, but we just don't know what it is." so ultimately, the best thing you can do is eat well. something you can do is take probiotic supplements or eat foods that are high in probiotics such as yakult or activia (if you're sure dairy doesn't affect your skin.) fermented foods could also help, so give it a shot!
 aside from diet, sleeping well is also important since your skin repairs itself the most during sleep. so make sure you get in your 8+ hours of sleep! make sure you change your pillow cases (and bed sheets if you're a crazy sleeper like me) at least once a week to make sure your face isn't touching bacteria, dirt, oil, etc while you sleep.

so i guess this brings us to the end of this long and wordy post, i really hope you guys learned something from this and found it helpful if you're still reading. good luck!

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Skinfood Good Afternoon Peach Green Tea BB Cream Review (#1)

(ok i decorated the background with the packing peanuts it came with because i didn't want the photo to be so boring but i realize it just looks really cheap and stupid but i'm too lazy to retake the pics!!! please ignore and don't judge)

Hey guys! i'm back with another review (after like 6 months and i also have no followers but whatever)

This time it's the Skinfood Good Afternoon Peach Green Tea BB Cream in shade 1 (the lighter of the two)
you can buy it here or on ebay/amazon/gmarket/taobao whatever.

I actually bought this on impulse because i had some money left over in my visa giftcard, but i actually really like it! There's a lot of different "flavours" (for lack of a better word) in the Good Afternoon line by Skinfood, i chose the Peach Green Tea one because it was supposed to be for oily/acne-prone skin which i have.


Skinfood Good Afternoon Peach Green Tea BB Cream is a long-lasting oil-controlling and mattifying BB cream that helps maintain bright morning skin throughout the day without darkening or smudging. It keeps skin fresh and matte with vitamin-enriched peach extract and sebum regulating green tea. This BB cream is part of the Good Afternoon BB Cream line; they are infused with skin-revitalizing afternoon teas that create vibrant skin all day!
Directions: Take an appropriate amount and apply a small dab to your cheeks, forehead, and chin. With the tips of your fingers spread bb cream evenly throughout your face. To avoid bb cream from caking, let sit for 5 minutes before building bb cream up for more coverage, and before apply any loose powders to set it with.
Benefits:
  • Oil Control
  • Matte Finish
  • Nourishes
  • UV Protection 

To be honest most of the claims are complete bullshit (all except the fact that it doesn't darken throughout the day) but i still like this bb cream!

To address the first "oil control" claim, i would honestly say it's not there. In fact i would say that it makes my skin oilier than if i were to wear no makeup at all, however this isn't a huge problem to me because i can just blot off the excess oil. Also it doesn't make my face SUPER oily, so i can tolerate this part.

The second claim of having a matte finish, i would also say is untrue. The finish of this bb cream is satin to dewy, depending on what kind of products you wear underneath it. However, it is not overly shiny (imo) until my skin starts to get oily. I actually like a dewy finish despite having oily skin because i just think it looks healthier. I find matte finishes to make my face look flat and it's just overall really unflattering. In short, although it's not matte, I really like the finish it gives.



As for nourishment, I can't really say much because I didn't use it consistently or long enough. However, I can say that after i removed it, my skin felt soft and hydrated.

There is UV Protection in this BB cream, however, it is (SPF 20) PA + which means that the sun protection factor in this isn't very good. (the more +'s the better the protection) However, it is better than nothing and i use a moisturizer with SPF 30 UVA+UVB protection anyways, so it's not a huge issue for me.

As for lasting power, I think it performs pretty average in comparison to other BB creams. It usually lasts 4-6 hours depending on the weather/how oily my skin is/how much i touch my face etc. until it starts to fade. When it fades, it doesn't get patchy or gross-looking, the coverage just slowly becomes sheerer and sheerer.

I'd say the coverage is light to medium. You can build it to slightly more than a solid medium, but definitely not full which is pretty standard for most BB creams.


random colours on my hand with no BB cream

with one layer of the BB cream

with two layers of the BB cream




The packaging is pretty cute I think, but nothing too glamorous or anything. I like it! i also like the squeeze tube a lot more than the Dr. Jart+ one (reviewed) because the hole is smaller so you have more control over how much you squeeze out.



Shade-wise, this shade 1 (the lighter of the two) seemed to match pretty well with my skin tone but is a little bit pale, which i like because it makes my skin look brighter without making my face look whiter than my neck. It didn't oxidize that much on me, but it might be because it was pretty close to my skin tone already.

left: oxidized for 10 minutes. right: freshly applied.

Overall, I think this is an okay BB cream and i've been wearing it a lot lately since it's summer and I don't have to go to school, so when i do go out I don't need my makeup to last for a long time. I also like the dewy finish because a lot of people like to sport a dewy look in the summertime. It's a pretty standard BB cream and I wouldn't say it's anything special, but I would recommend it because I do think it's worth a try, especially because you can find it for pretty cheap and it's good for travelling with.

Coverge: 
Pretty standard for a BB cream, light to medium coverage.
Packaging: 
Pretty cute, efficient and somewhat hygienic.
Blendability: 
Pretty easy to blend unless you use too much, however it takes a while to... sink it? or set.
Lasting Power: 
Average.

**ingredients were not included in this review because they were listed in Korean on the box




Tuesday, 26 March 2013

Dr. Jart+ Silver Label BB Cream Review

Hey guys! So this is my first beauty review ever. Today i will be reviewing Dr. Jart's Silver Label BB Cream.
I bought this here but it can also be purchased here and here.
This is the 6th BB cream i have tried. If you are looking for a comparison to western BB creams, i'm sorry but I haven't tried any.
I was decided to buy this after sunnydahye recommended this on her youtube. If you don't already watch here, I highly recommend you do!
Now on with the review!!

Claims
This BB cream has an SPF of 35 PA++ and claims to be whitening. The back of the bottle (which i forgot to take a picture of, oopsie!) says: "This unique professional formula contains innovative active ingredients perfectly expresses flawless skin while concealing blemishes and activating skin rejuvenation. It soothes red irritated skin while providing moisture and controlling excess sebum."
While I haven't really noticed any whitening or soothing of irritated skin, I can say that it does cover pretty well and does a good job at providing moisture while still controlling by oils a little bit. My oily-combo skin still does get oily after a few hours, but it's nowhere near as bad as some other products i have used. I set this with Maybelline Dream Matte Powder (t-zone only) and i only have to blot once a day, which is pretty good for me! This covers my (pretty severe) acne scarring reasonably well and also reduces redness in active breakouts. This also is quite effective at concealing dark circles as well.
For most, i think this could provide a flawless coverage. I would say this is a solid medium-buildable coverage. For me, some of my scarring does still show through, but I have A LOT of scarring, and i'm also not going for a flawless coverage. I just want my skin to look a little better, and this product definitely does that for me. 
Packaging

As you can see from the two photos above, the packaging is rather simple and unisex. It's a plain, yet sophisticated 30g silver tube with a black cap. The nozzle is rather large, which can cause it to be a little messy (i cleaned my prior to taking photos.) Aside from the messiness, I really don't mind the packaging. It's pretty simple, yet quite functional as well.
Coverage
Let's review the coverage of this BB cream. I drew 4 lines on my hand. A brown one to show how it covers dark spots, a purple one for dark circles, a red one for pimples and redness, and a black one because it seems to be what most bloggers use to show coverage.
Here's how it covers with one layer of the bb cream. It may not seem that impressive, but the colours are obviously exaggerated.

With 2 layers of the BB cream. I'm not sure if you can tell from the photo, but with 2 layers it can look a little cakey, especially if your skin is dryer (why my hands are.) While I wouldn't recommend using 2 layers over your entire face, doubling it up as a concealer works perfectly fine. As you can see, the red and purple lines are covered up relatively well.
Swatches
Here's some swatches of the BB cream. The top is after oxidizing for about 10 minutes, and the bottom is freshly applied. While it doesn't oxidize much after initial application, i do notice that it looks a little paler at the end of the day than when i leave the house in the morning (about 7 hours.) If you were wondering, my skin has neutral undertones and is on the pale side. I've never been matched at MAC, but i used N2 in L'Oreal True Match foundation, which the internet tells me is around an NC/W25(?). As you can tell from above, this BB Cream is quite yellow-based, which is nice for those who have a yellow undertone to their skin and also for people who have a lot of redness in their skin because i find it counteracts redness quite effectively.

Ingredients
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Titanium Dioxide, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Silica, Glycerin, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sodium Chloride, Arbutin, Dimethicone, CI 77492, Ozokerite, hexyl Laurate, Disteardimonium Hecut torite, Beeswax, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dimenthicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crotsspolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, CI 77499, CI 77491, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Quaternium-18 Bentonite, Calcium Stearate, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hyluronate, Ubiquinone, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol, Caffeine, Oenanthe Javanica Extract, Disodium EDTA, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Mica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane. 
(taken from prettyandcute.com which i linked at the beginning of the post)

While this does have some pretty good ingredients, they are mostly located at the end of the list, meaning they are in a low concentration. This doesn't really bother me though, because i buy BB creams to use as makeup products. I don't really buy them for an added skin benefit. What stood out to me about this product is that it is alcohol, fragrance, and oil free. A lot of Korean BB creams tend to have oil and fragrance in them, so i was happy when i found this one! it doesn't break me out at all. I have been using it regularly for about 3 months and i still haven't had any problems with it!


Overall
This BB Cream has a more matte finish than most asian BB creams, i'd say it's a satin to natural finish. It has got a little bit of a glowiness to it, but it's definitely not dewy so i would recommend it to people who have normal, combination, or oily skin. I would definitely not recommend to people with dry skin because if your skin is under moisturized it tends to be hard to blend and can look cakey. I usually apply this with my fingers, but i think a buffing brush would also work well with this product. It works pretty good at controlling oil, with a powder i only have to blot once, which is great for me! I have also worn this without a powder and it still lasts long and is ok at controlling my oils. It also has a bit more coverage than most BB creams, so if your skin is problematic or uneven i would recommend this to you. While it does have a heavier coverage, it doesn't feel heavy on the skin at all. Most of the time, i can't even feel this on my face. Ultimately, since this works well with oilier and more problematic skin, this is ideal for those with acne or post-acne marks!
Final Verdict
Coverge: 
For a BB cream, this has a solid medium-buildable coverage, earning it a 4/5
Packaging: 
3/5 stars for this one. It's efficient but nothing special. Gets the job done.
Blendability: 
3/5 stars again for this. When your skin is well moisturized, i don't have many problems blending, especially for how thick it is. But when my skin isn't moisturized well enough, it's pretty difficult to blend.
Lasting Power: 
5 stars for this one!! I find it lasts forever on my skin. even without a powder, this can last me up to about 8 or 9 hours! With a powder, it has lasted me 12 hours but i haven't ever worn BB cream for longer so i can't really say what the actual lasting power is. Still, 12 hours is awesome!

Thanks for reading my review, and i hope you found it helpful. If you would like to see more reviews and such, feel free to follow my blog!